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New Era, New Prep

158个月之前


Photo: Courtesy of powerHouse Books

Originally published in 1965, the recently reprinted photography book Take Ivy documents a global fascination with the seemingly mundane topic of American prep style. While the clean-cut looks throughout its pages resist the stinging label of “old-fashioned,” turning to the fall 2011 runways as a cross-reference proves that we have made progress since. The collections of ADAM, Yigal Azrouël, and Tommy Hilfiger are anything but traditional, infusing East Coast refinement with grunge, glam and everything else that would make Lily Pulitzer’s skin crawl. As Pete Seeger sang in “Little Boxes,” “The kids go to the university.” But now, they slap on some leather, a little neon, and certainly don’t, “all come out the same”, updating their tweed and argyle for the 21st-century. As the admissions decisions roll in, here’s how to create your all-American look based on the recent trends, and redefine prep just in time for enrollment.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Tommy Hilfiger, who practically invented this aesthetic, dropped the Oxford shirts and boat shoes in favor of a more relaxed woman. Focusing on layering, he topped flirtatious dresses and skirts with over-sized basics, such as a storm-worthy mackintosh, a bigger-than-life turtleneck and some very serious wellies. But it was his slightly eccentric details, an askew hat here or a striped stocking there, that will content his customer’s inner WASP.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

Unafraid to experiment, ADAM took classic in a distinctly screwball chic direction, with quirky touches such as large glasses, funky tribal prints, tasseled heels with socks, and granola-friendly ponchos. Cinched waists and sheer fabrics ensured that even the most in-the-know girl will covet his designs and give geek a chance.

Photo: Imaxtree

Photo: Imaxtree

One of the masters of downtown cool, it came as a shock when Yigal Azrouël sent a sweater vest down the runway. Albeit, his muse was no preppy princess. Using his crisp and clean mantra as a guideline, Azrouël conquered the masculine/feminine effect with unexpected doses of color and texture, like glittery gold ties, leather cropped pants, and electric blue under shirts: perfect for escaping out of an ivory (0r Ivy-covered) tower.
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